Roads, trees, roads, trees

Two really long days driving… why did nobody mention quite how big Canada is??? (Meave, I’m looking at you!)

We set off from Cheticamp, after a quick stop to pick up some essential delicacies from the Boulangerie Au Coin (as recommended on TripAdviser), and headed south along the coastline. Stopped pretty soon to eat them… they were indeed delicious! 

Back on the move and kept on going until we reached Denmark. No, not the Scandi home of bacon, butter and our favourite pint-sized comedian, politician and author… the other, smaller one in Nova Scotia, famous for the Sutherland Steam Mill museum. A personalised tour later, and there’s nothing we don’t know about steam-powered sawmills of the north eastern seaboard in the early 20th century… just need it to be a round at the next quiz night (Peter?)

More driving and a big red chair, and we arrived at our nights lodgings, just over the border in New Brunswick. Luxury of luxuries, they had plates and bowls - we feasted like royalty!

Next day, we were up and at ‘em again, back on the road straight after breakfast. Our only real stop of the day was at the Bouctouche Dune Eco Centre, where we picnicked, walked on the boardwalk and then paddled back to the start. It was superb.

Then, back in the car and rather horrified to see that we had a further 225 miles to drive, we put the pedal to the metal. It was a long old drive, but blimey have we seen trees, roads, trees, roads, hills and a few more trees. The road took us through wooded mountains, over the Appalachian ridge, and down the other side, pretty much without passing another car our building. And we’re still only half way through the Deathly Hallows audiobook!

Arrived at our motel, dropped our bags and drove (😩) into Grand Falls for a take away pizza with a view: apparently this gorge carries (at peak flow) 90% of the amount of water that Niagara carries. Blimey!

Adventure score: 4/10

Tiredness rating: 5/10

(2 days distance = 867km ooof)

The Cabot Trail

Another day, another road trip. After our fabulous time in Louisbourg we headed north via Sydney and the slightly crazy tiny cable ferry at Englishtown to start our exploration of the Cabot Trail. Imagine hours of windy bumpy roads winding their way along the coast (with plenty of viewpoints for looking for whales) or through woodlands overlooking the coast.

We had a very short stop for lunch at a cafe, where we all got bitten by nasty biting things, then went to Ingonish Beach where Alana and I had a quick swim then she dug holes for the waves to fill. 

Then on to Black Brook Cove Beach which has its own waterfall, but the water was really dark - I think it had peat in it, washed downstream from the surrounding hills. It was perfect for clambering on rocks and chilling. A joined a couple of French-speaking children to make a dam in the sand.

Then we headed even further north and after thumping along a dirt road for a bone-shaking 8km we arrived at our tiny cabin in Meat Cove, along with more evil biting things. The smug zone is totally gone - the bugs won 😩

Our cabin was really really basic and didn’t have any bowls, so we created a gourmet supper of rice, marmite and sweetcorn, individually prepared and microwaved in mugs - such sophistication!

Next morning we had a similarly gourmet breakfast - cereal served in plastic cups! Then back along the shaky quakey dirt road towards civilisation… 

First stop was Cabot landing, where Giovanni Cabot first landed and apparently discovered the continent of America… kind of in the same way that kids “discover” things by pushing the previous kid out of the way…

Back on the Cabot Trail and a couple of short walks (coyote warning heeded!) to see The Lone Sheiling (a recreation of a Scottish settler family’s hut) and a beautiful waterfall, where we had lunch in the camper’s hut. Some very steep drives, and every now and then we got the whiff of burning brakes from some of the trucks on the route! 

Then on to the Whale Interpretation Centre at Pleasant Bay, and spent a while on the shore looking hopefully at the waves but not seeing any whales. 

And finally drove round some more densely wooded mountains up and down steep and zig-zaggy roads into Cheticamp to our next lodgings, right on the harbour.

Adventure score: 6/10

Tiredness rating: 2/10

310 miles, 31 million trees and an 18th century fortress

Up and away from Dartmouth first thing, heading north east up the highway, with bagels on board…

By lunchtime we had made it to Guysborough, which as you’ll be aware, is the location of Canada’s most easterly park run route. Despite it being a combination of floofing hot and cracking flags hot (32c) Alana and I put on our running shoes and headed off along the trail. Sensible Kathy walked in the shade.

40 minutes later Kathy came to find us looking like melted puddles of sweat on the track… and we still had a kilometre to go 🥵

However, we saw an interesting roadsign, a red squirrel and an American Robin, as well as some beautiful scenery, so it wasn’t all bad. And Kathy appeared to have become a magnet for the local mosquito population. 😩

Sweaty and generally unpleasant, we found the sea and stood in it for a while to cool down. Then, still eating bagels we headed back to the Trans Canada Highway to Louisbourg. The scenery in places was utterly beautiful, with wooded hills (at least 31 million - we counted them!) rising up out of the blue, blue sea, and tiny villages popping up along the route. We also spotted a white-tailed eagle soaring over a high ridge. 

Louisbourg itself is really an ‘end if the road’ place. There literally isn’t anything past here.

We stayed in a lodge on the outskirts of town, and next day got up and went to the Fortress. It was one of the places that Kathy really wanted to visit, and it certainly lived up to its billing. It’s a recreation of the 1740s fort, with many many costumed staff who are happy to tell you everything! 

We saw a troop of soldiers firing muskets and a cannon (very loud!), bought some authentically produced “upper class” bread (50/50 white/rye: the middle class bread wholemeal/rye had sold out!), had a guided tour in a golf buggy, watched a public punishment (you can pre-book to be Prisoner of the Day!), learnt about vegetable gardening and animal farming and domestic engineering, in 1740s Louisbourg, watched some trad dancing, ate a thoroughly modern lemon cheesecake, peeked in many recreated houses… so much to do!

And we spoke to one of the staff who watches Shrewsbury Folk Festival online! 🤩😎

Adventure score: 6/10

Tiredness rating: 4/10

Halifax

We strolled back down to downtown Dartmouth this morning, after a refreshing but humid night’s sleep, and worked our way to Two If By Sea cafe, opposite two historical Quaker buildings (but still not as old as our house - crazy!), bought ourselves huge and disappointing pastries and drinks, and arrived at the ferry terminal to get the boat across the harbour to Halifax.

We explored the boardwalk hoping to find a tourist information place but with no success. Luckily we had Google maps instead! Really enjoyed the waterfront area - there was so much to see and do.

At the furthest south end of the board walk is the museum of immigration, celebrating the million plus people that arrived there during the 20th century. 

Alana’s holiday money was already burning a hole in her pocket, so she splashed out on a handmade necklace from the farmers market.

Then we headed a couple of blocks back from the waterfront to see some of Halifax’s historical buildings, the original town cemetery (I know, people were dying to get in there… it’s the dead centre of town!), and on to the Citadel where we sat and ate our lunch looking at the tall buildings that completely block the view of the harbour.

Back to the ferry port, and then trudged tiredly back up from the harbour to our holiday home.

Adventure score: 4:10

Tiredness rating: 9/10

The longest day

Got up relatively early, Tom dropped us at Heathrow in plenty of time and we were off!

Alana assume her usual airport habits… listening to George Ezra while munching a pastry. Time flies by…

 First glimpse of our air-chariot.

 And ready to fly…!

The flight was smooth and uneventful. However, when we landed and switched phones back on everyone’s phone’s emergency siren went off. There had been massive flooding in the Halifax region today and yesterday, with many roads closed and residents evacuated. And it was still raining! All a little dramatic! 

Nevertheless we picked up our hire car (massive white Kia Sportage) and gingerly drove on the wrong side of the road through the rain, and arrived in Dartmouth.

We dropped our bags and headed out for tea. Luckily just ten minutes walk to downtown we found the Brightwood Brewery and pizzeria - the perfect place for us!

Adventure score: 8/10

Tiredness rating: 9/10